In Paris, on July 10, 2025, Sotheby’s sold Jane Birkin original Hermès Birkin prototype for €8.6 million (~$10.1 million), including fees—the highest price ever paid for a handbag at auction. The sale was the climax of Sotheby’s “Fashion Icons” auction and capped off a frenetic 10-minute bidding battle involving nine collectors, ending with a private bidder from Japan as the winner.
From Airplane Sketch to Global Icon
The story begins in 1984, aboard an Air France flight when Jane Birkin, frustrated by her small handbag, sketched her ideal tote on an air sickness bag for Hermès designer Jean‑Louis Dumas. The prototype Birkin was born: a spacious, elegant bag blending utility with Parisian chic.
Unmistakable Details of the Prototype
- Crafted in black Box leather with gilded brass hardware, not the gold‑plated fittings later used.
- Size: width & height of a Birkin 35, but depth of a Birkin 40—a unique hybrid design.
- Special elements: closed metal rings, non-removable shoulder strap, smaller base studs, and an Éclair‑brand interior zip.
- Personal touches: Birkin’s initials “J.B.” engraved on the flap and her nail clippers still attached to the strap .
A Legacy Worn Daily
Jane Birkin used the bag for nine years before donating it in 1994 to raise money for AIDS charity—an auction run reflecting her humanitarian ethos. In 2000, the collector Catherine Benier purchased it, keeping it as a historical piece—until Sotheby’s brought it back to market in 2025 — nearly 25 years later.
Why the Buzz Now?
- Record-breaking sale: The prototype smashed prior auction records, dwarfing the previous high of ~$513,000 for a rare Hermès Kelly bag.
- Fashion and pop culture icon: The Birkin bag has long symbolized wealth and exclusivity. Its origin with Jane Birkin adds unmatched emotional resonance .
- Emblem of slow fashion: From a spontaneous sketch to a handmade masterpiece, the original Birkin represents craftsmanship, history, and storytelling in fashion .
More Than a Bag: A Cultural Artifact
Jane Birkin—British-French actress, musician, and style icon—left a legacy beyond cinema and music. Though Hermès resisted removing her name from the iconic bag, her identity remains forever linked to the design. The sale of this prototype reaffirms that legacy in style history .
